Please, teach me? This is exactly what I've been looking for, for inspiration :D
Thanks for your message Jackson! Rusty Necrons are really simple to do and these are mostly assembled from the basic plastic kits by just adding Imperial Servo Skulls to serve as the heads.
This is an incredibly absract assortment of chaps and the creativity is glorious, I especially like the warriors and deathmarks,So if you could, there are no decent tutorials on rusted necrons anywhere! So how did you manage that finish? And what did you do to make the Guns stay on the Deathmarks' backs? :)
Yo,We did the Necron Assassins with a dual purpose in mind, this way they could be used as either Deathmarks or Flayed Ones. :) The Claw Arms are actually from Canoptek Wraith Sprues. The Synaptic Disintegrator guns on the models' backs are just shortened a bit by clipping the rear end off and then glued to the center of the back plates. If I remember correctly I think I needed to saw a little something away from their spine parts to make room and flatten the "mount" for the gun. I think it's fairly easy to figure once you got the parts in front of you. :)This 500 point crew was a joy to paint. The models were first undercoated with Army Painter black spray and then again with silver. This was to make them already silver but to have some shading underneath. The models were then washed a couple of times with Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil from Citadel's Wash Range. This basically gave them the dark feeling but we did some additional rust effect by combining Agrax Earthshade and a regular orange color paint from Citadel Layer range. The trick is to make it really running with added water so it won't actually cover any model surface put "pools" into recesses and holes the rust would gather in the real life as well. This can be then applied on the model with a standard brush and excess (which you feel is too much) can be wiped away with a piece of tissue.Their back plates were painted with Dheneb Stone (older Foundation paint from Citadel) and then washed with Seraphim Sepia. The highlight scratches were then painted on with Dheneb Stone and finally White Scar.Hope this helps! Here's a link on the project blog posts with a few additional pics. http://www.gowarhead.com/search/label/Lunar%20PrimeCheers
I thankyou so much for such a detailed reply, especially the paints; it makes starting on this that much more exciting :DThat just about covers any issues, I am infact starting the deathmarks right now as I've finally bought some wraiths which is super funky, I just would like to know what you did to some of their legs, there was a tutorial once which showed how to rearrange warrior legs to make them look massively tall but it has been took down and you've got some really good looking poses hereI did try once but I can't tell if its the thigh or knee or lower leg you cut, it would be groovy if you could share but I can't thank yall enough for all you have detailed already :)
Ohoh and heads! :D How exactly did you cut off the lower mouth - it's a bit risky with the cutters and not acurate with a knife so just to reassure me what did you use?Of course once I have finished this project I will be giving all the credit to this blog
Hi Jackson, thank you so much. I'm happy to share any info I can to aid with your conversion projects!With the legs I took off the part below the knee and carved an u-shaped line to their ends so they "wrap" a bit around the round knee part. That way you can make the knee bend basically like it would be in real life. Easy way to do it is to just brutally twist the limb so that it cracks a bit and then just apply a blob of glue to fill the gap. It's not just as pretty but with rust weathering it's pretty unnoticeable. The Deathmark with the "Hamlet-pose" has both of these methods applied, as it's left leg is first twisted to the plastic's breaking point from the hip part and then the leg below the knee has been cut off to create the bent knee effect.I'm using one of these for all of the cutting because I find it easier to control than a regular hobby knife. I just have to be very careful, because I usually support the part with my thumb of the same hand that's holding the knife so that the blade movement stops just before contact with the finger. The straight blade is easier to get in level with getting an accurate cut, just make thin cuts so you can make a small correction with the second one.http://www.test-air.fi/grafiikat/Olfa441022BN-AL.gifI hope this makes sense to you and helps with your project!